The very first thing that needs to happen is to un-rope the drum and see what lies beneath. The heads have obviously been causing a problem because on has been screwed to the shell.
The job is now straight forward, but time consuming. Whilst I am soaking a head until it is really wet and pliable, the drum shell can have the star marks removed – it looks like these were stickers, because it is the glue that has been left behind.
I also treat the bearing edge a process I have detailed in 1233: Vintage Bass Drum (pt 2).
With everything ready I stretched the head onto the shell using my drum press. Because neither head had a collar I did one side first then the other.
With the splicing and whipping on the rope redone, I rope the drum whilst it is still in the press to maintain tension. It also saves a lot of hard work pulling rope as hard as possible and the subsequent suffering with blisters!
In the first half of the repair of this vintage bass drum (1233: (pt 1)), I wrote about making a new counter hoop, fixing the shell and making replacement tuning lugs. The lugs are now back from the chrome platers, but more importantly, the drum is now needed by my customer at the end of the month. In order for me to realise the deadline, and fit in with my delivery schedule, I need to finish the bass drum today so it is ready to be delivered at the end of the week.
After selecting a calfskin big enough and then putting it in to soak, I get everything ready to lap the head onto the existing flesh hood that I repaired.
I like to leave the lapping to dry for a bit, so that the skin becomes tacky and starts to stick to itself before I put it on the drum. It will take 48hrs for the skin to completely dry around the hoop, but the playing surface will start drying quickly. So as long as I keep the playing surface wet, I have plenty of time to do the drum and get the head on later in the day.
In 1233: (part 1) I made new barrels for the tension rods to screw into. What I didn’t have was a tap long enough to put in a 2.1/4″ deep thread into the barrel. I had to order these specially, so sent the stuff to be plated during the delay. The video below shows the problem I had. It is a bit boring (in both meanings of the word), but it shows how the thread feels like it is going on and on and on.
Once the threads are cut and checked, I can assemble the drum shell and start preparing to put on the head.
I have mentioned putting on heads in other posts, and explained what I do. This time I remembered to video it!
With both heads evenly set, the drum is now finished, and has plenty of time to dry before Friday.
Today of course is polling day – time for us to support the essentially anti-democratic and self serving political system that we have here in the UK (and aggressively export). We will all (well about 10% of us) go out and give a mandate for 650 corrupt, dishonest and dishonorable bloody idiots to avoid the big issues for another 5 years. Politicians call it voter apathy (because they are a bit thick) but I think that they are wrong; it is not apathy, the general public is more political than ever (the one good thing that ukip have exposed). In our democratic system we have no constitutional ability to change how the country is run. The ability to do that is in the hands of the government, and mp’s won’t vote to get rid of themselves, they won’t even take a pay cut! Rant over.
It is funny how that what I am repairing goes in cycles; this winter I was doing timps after timps, now it is all vibes and drums. Here is yet another little drum that needs a new head.
As usual I forgot to take a before shot, but all I have done is put the new skin in the drink and taken the old heads off the drum. This is the old style fittings where both heads pull against each other, so the tension bolts are as long as the drum is deep, and the lugs are little eyes that they pass through.
Now I have the pieces, I cut the split head off its flesh hoop so that I can reuse the hoop, onto which I lapped the new skin. I do this first so that the lapping has a bit of time to dry out.
Next all the metal work, which is nickel plated, gets cleaned up, and the threads degreased. You know how oil can soak into your hands and make them stink, stained, dry and sore? Well the same happens to drum heads, because it is the same stuff (more or less) that we are covered in. DO NOT USE PETROCHEMICAL PRODUCTS ON DRUMS WITH NATURAL HEADS. If you come across a drum smothered in grease – it has been worked on by a moron!
With all the metal work finished, I now turn my attention to the drum shell. The critical part is the bearing edge, so this gets cleaned and lightly sanded, finishing with an almost polished surface. What I am wanting is a nice surface over which the skin will slide; what I don’t want are fibres of wood standing up like little spikes.
So now I have got the bearing edge how I like it, I now seal it to stop water going in and lifting the wood fibres. Candle wax, being made from paraffin which is an extract of oil is exactly what I don’t want to use to seal the bearing edge. Beeswax would be OK, but I use tallow which is a boiled sheep. I rub this into the wood using friction to generate heat enough to melt the tallow so that it can run into all the microscopic gaps in the wood fibres. I go over the drum a second time but also go down the sides a little so that the inside of the flesh hoop doesn’t stick to the drum shell as it dries. Finally I use tallow to lubricate the threads on the tension rods, and where there is metal to metal contact.
With everything clean and slippery, now the easy part – I put the drum head on, and the job is finished.
It seems like I have been occupied taking lots of small steps with large projects recently and have neglected to take photographs and write posts about them. This is one of those jobs that have been on the go for a while.
As can be seen this vintage bass drum has seen better days. There are several aspects that need to be repaired. First on the list to make a new counter hoop to replace the original which is in several pieces and cannot be practicably repaired.
I have never needed to make a counter hoop in wood before, the hoops I make are normally polished stainless steel. This lack of prior experience is never a problem, the reality is that I spend most of my working life going into the unknown, which is how I develop new methods and techniques to constantly improve quality. What I therefore do have is a lot of know how.
So I started by planing a long board of oak to the depth of the hoop and cutting off a thin strip, in the above picture I am using the thicknessing sander I built to clean up the sides of saw marks and make the width uniform.
There are two types of jigs or pattern used to make things; internal or external. A pie dish is an external mould. I made an internal mould to prevent the hoop forming below the correct diameter. Then I calculated the circumference which gives me the length of the strip of wood so that I could angle the ends to create a scarf joint.
The long strip is then steamed (inside a long tube) until it goes floppy, then bent around the mould and clamped in place until the wood has cooled and set. The next day the hoop came out of the mould so that it could dry off for a while.
When oak gets wet, the tannins are pulled out and the surface of the wood (and my hands) get stained black. The moisture will also lift surface fibres. Both issues are resolved by sanding until that surface layer is removed. The final step before varnishing is to create the radiuses on the external edge.
The next job is to make replacement barrels for the tuning lugs. These are solid with the thread cut into them, so to replicate them it is lathe work: drilling a small pilot hole a long way into a thin rod. This is a heart in the mouth process, if that drill bit snaps inside the rod, then it goes in the scrap bin; obviously there is a hole at either end. Patience, care and feel gets there in the end.
With the barrels made, they can be sent to be chrome plated. In 1233: (part 2) I will assemble and finish the drum.
The beginning of this post is 1241: Bell Frame (pt 1) which covers most of the work that was done. Whilst the metal work was away being powder coated, the board was finished and varnished. What I end up with, is a whole pile of bits to be reassembled on various instruments.
I was asked about the strength of the hinge and the boards flexing under body weight in a comment on (part one). The main bar around which the whole step rotates supports the front edge of the forward board, and there is a steel brace to support the outer edge of that forward step.
The new extension board has braces running across the width of the board both fore and aft. These braces also provide the pivot points around which the legs rotate.
Below is a short video showing how it all works.
This drum came in to have calf heads fitted. Unfortunately, the previous owner had attached plastic heads to the flesh hoops with a mixture of super glue, araldite, staples, nails and metal epoxy. I did get them off, but it would have taken hours to clean up the hoops.
When measuring up so I could roll new flesh hoops, I saw that the counter hoops would not pass over the drum shell, mainly due to the hideous paint job which had been slapped presumably with a flip flop, but they were also hindered by the metal epoxy. I can visualise the person struggling with joining plastic to wood, slapping on the epoxy and trying to seat the newly made drum head onto the drum whilst wet and the gooey mess dribbling out and going everywhere!
So it all that black mess had to come off.
The undercoat scraped off easily, because it was painted directly onto varnish.
It was probably painted to hide the repair
But even in its raw state the drum now looks so much better, and the counter hoops will now work properly. Now the shell and hoops can be refinished and reassembled. I have opted for oil on the shell, and gloss varnish on the hoops. The fittings are cleaned and shined, and finally the new flesh hoops can be rolled.
After the flesh hoops have been plated (to prevent rusting), the heads can be lapped and the drum assembled.